Farming Sonoma vineyards organically

Farming Sonoma vineyards organically

 

Farming Sonoma vineyards organically is expensive and time consuming. And it makes the wine more expensive too. Why?

One of the biggest risks to vineyards around the globe is mold and mildew. Mildew spores over-winter in dormant cane buds and under bark. For season-long control, the vineyards must be sprayed. But with what?

Traditional farming deploys an array of chemicals to knock down mold and mildew. Examples include Tebuconazole, Triflumixole, and Quinoxyfen. To be effective, during the growing season chemicals like these will be sprayed on every inch of every grapevine roughly every 21 days.

Organic choices are more limited, and less effective, and sometimes more expensive too. And they must be applied every 10-14 days. Over the course of an entire growing season, that means 3-5 more trips through the vineyard with the driver, tractor, and sprayer, and nearly twice the total chemical cost. If you owned vineyards and you’re livelihood depended on growing and selling perfect grapes, which path would you choose?

At Hydeout Sonoma, we are sustainable always, and organic whenever possible. And our clients happily (or grudgingly) pay the extra costs – knowing their kids and pets can safely play in the vineyard and (the adults) can safely drink the wine.

In May, most grapes will look like this…

healthy grapes in June

Those same grapes grapes will look like this by late summer…

healthy grapes in July

but left untreated, by Fall those grapes will look like this, ruined…

powdery mildewed grapes in August

Mold and mildew must prevented early and all season (until the grapes start to color up or turn red, called verasion). Once you have it, no amount of irrigation or spraying will get you out of mildew trouble. 

An uninformed person might drive past one of our organic spray programs and get pretty nervous hearing all the noise and seeing the chemical fog. This is what fully organic spraying can look like from a distance…

organic spray by tractor

And up close…

organic spray by tractor close up

This week, we are spraying a combination of 3 organic products, all approved by OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute).

OMRI is a non-profit that supports organic integrity by developing clear information and guidance about materials, so that producers know which products are appropriate for organic operations.

https://www.omri.org

Organic spray materials

  • Sulfur 80: it’s just like what it sounds, basically naturally occurring sulfur in mineral form all crushed up, and then pulverized so that it will go into dispersable suspension with water,
  • Sonata: is a bio-fungicide with live bacteria spores that induce plants’ natural defenses to resist disease development and anti-fungal compounds that have contact fungicidal activity.
  • Syl-coat: is a nonionic surfactant which has been specifically designed to enhance the efficacy of pesticides. It is particularly effective when used with water-soluble mildewcides.

Along with managing organic pesticides, vineyard irrigation management is an equal challenge. Here is one sample image of how I manage our client’s vineyard irrigation from my cell phone.

irrigation status – cell phone

See more Hydeout Sonoma blog entries at: https://www.hydeoutsonoma.com/welcome-to-the-hydeout-sonoma-blog/

Sonoma International Film Festival

Sonoma International Film Festival

Join me for a quick visit to the Sonoma International Film (and food and wine) Festival, as seen through the eyes of Hydeout Sonoma:

Our houseguests during the festival were the director and stars of the documentary film, Grand Cru. Focussed on the trials and tribulations of farming and winemaking in Burgundy, famed winemaker Pascal Marchand is followed by the camera during the 2016 vintage as he works through hail, frost, mildew, low yields, and bureaucratic logjams in one of the most difficult vintages in Burgundy’s history.

http://www.marchand-tawse.com/en

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Pascal’s wife, Amandine Marchand, manages the brand’s front office.

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Following the film, Grand Cru, director David Eng (left) and Pascal participated in a lively Q&A.

https://www.grandcrufilm.com

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Pascal, and his business partner, Moray Tawse, bottle wines, including many Grand Cru’s, under the Domaine Tawse and Marchand-Tawse.

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Famed local historian, radio and newspaper personality, art collector, and all around local Sonoma booster Kathleen Hill MC’d the Q&A session.

http://kathleenthompsonhill.com

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After the screening of Grand Cru, as is the tradition in Sonoma, the film crew, festival staff, and VIP’s headed over to a tasting room for some wine and cheese, this time to “Abbot’s Passage,” a new project by sixth-generation vintner Katie Bundchu (of Gundlach Bundchu)

http://www.abbotspassage.com

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Abbot’s Passage 2014 “The Crossing”, is a delicious blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cab Sauv., from fruit on Arrowhead Mountain, across the street from Hydeout Sonoma

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That night, about 100 film festival guests enjoyed a once-in-a-lifetime meal served up by some of the best chefs in the culinary world

https://devourfest.com

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Joining me at our table was the always effervescent and unstoppable Rosemary McNeely, a woman of power in her own right, and also the wife of equally unstoppable film festival Executive Director Kevin McNeely

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This was the dish served by Michelin-starred chef Dominique Crenn, of Atelier Crenn in SF. The photo does not do the dish justice. It was a truly mind-bending walk through a literal and figurative forest of flavors in every bite.

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Dominque missed the chef photo op. Shown here are Michael Howell (Founder of the Devour Food Film Festival), John Toulze (Girl and the Fig), Evan Funke (Felix), John McReynolds (Stone Edge Farm), and Lia Rinaldo (Managing Director of Devour)

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Dancing went on all night with a Frank (Sinatra) and Eva (Gardner) themed celebration

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Jody Purdom (SIFF Development Director) and Cynthia Wornick (SIFF Board member) posed for a photo op in the big tent.

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The wine documentary, “Andre”, the amazing life story of famed enologist Andre Tchelistcheff, thrilled local wine industry folks; many in the audience knew Andre personally and were often moved to tears.

http://themaestrofilm.com

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Following the documentary film, “Jacques Pepin, the Art of Craft,” film sponsors Lori and Steve Bush (shown here) hosted us at Adastra Winery, with exquisite food from next door – from the Bush’s very popular Sonoma restaurant, OSO

http://ososonoma.com

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Following the film, “Beyond the River,” film sponsors Gail and John Diserens hosted a fun party at Rancho Maria Winery, the newest tasting room on the Sonoma Square. Seen here is Sebastian Juarez, the owner-manager.

http://www.ranchomaria.com

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Beth Schnitzer, co-founder of Spritz Marketing (the lead marketing agency for the Sonoma Film Festival), is always ready with a big smile and another fun idea!

http://spritzsf.com

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See you in 2019 for another great Sonoma International Film Festival!

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Next blog post: A winery on the equator? Yes! A pictorial tour by motorcycle of Colombia’s “Marques de Villa de Leyva.”

Meet the winners…

Meet the winners…

Meet the winners of the Hydeout Sonoma blogpost contest. These 3 eagle-eyed readers spotted my-newt joke in the previous blog post….

For their efforts, they each received a bottle of 2016 “Dysfunctional Family” wine ( a new ‘second label’ project we introduced this vintage), a photo-op, and the incredible fame that comes with this post!

Lori Melancon Lola Farm - Meet the winners...

Lori Melancon, Lola Farms, Sonoma

Lori leads all gardening activities at Lola farm, and manages their organic certification program, and makes a truly farm-to-table lunch, less than 300 feet from the farm to the table; if you are lucky enough to be there at lunchtime. Lori, and husband Chris, also run a “Hog Share” program –  It’s simple. You purchase a whole or portion of a live hog, called a share, and Lola Sonoma Farms handles the rest – from raising and harvesting the animal to coordinating with the butcher and ensuring you have a great experience throughout the process. Click on this link to visit, learn, shop…

http://www.lolasonoma.com

Sharon Knight - Meet the winners...

Sharon Knight, Tech Exec

Sharon’s new position at Hawthorne Effect brings her patient experience focus to the world of clinical trials where 10% – 50% of patients are lost to attrition and trials are riddled with missing data, weakening the assessment of drug and device efficacy and safety. Sharon’s linkedin page is: 

Sharon Knight’s LinkedIn page

Sharon is headed to what she, and husband John Hornbaker, hope will be a life changing experience in Germany, in Uberlingen, above Lake Constance – which the Germans call Bodensee, a clinic for therapeutic fasting, integrative medicine and inspiration:

https://www.buchinger-wilhelmi.com/

Ken Stokes - Meet the winners...

Ken Stokes, Executive

Ken is busy with too many exciting things to count. Highlights include being the Chair of the Board of Trustees of Olin College Of Engineering outside Boston, Mass., serves on the Advisory Board of the Sonoma Valley Fund (which is part of the Community Foundation Sonoma County), and is a board member of the  Sonoma Valley Museum of Art. When it comes to giving back, Ken is the very definition.

http://www.olin.edu

http://www.sonomacf.org

http://www.svma.org

Upcoming blog post: We visit a winery at the equator, by motorcycle…

KW and CBW Colombia - Meet the winners...

Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

In my final post on the 2017 Sonoma Firestorm, (Part 3) come along as we hike through Arrowhead Mountain, the southernmost flank of the Mayacamas Mountains that splits Napa and Sonoma Counties.

The hike started at the base of Arrowhead mountain and climbed up to +/-750 feet elevation near the Sonoma/Napa County line, just above local wineries Gundlach Bundschu, Scribe, and Nicholson Ranch. Along the way, we discovered proof of nature’s power as plants and animals of all varieties are making a comeback.

Arrowhead Mountain view south - Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

Above is the ‘normal’ view, pre-October 2017 firestorm, looking south into San Pablo Bay.

Arrowhead mountain before the fires - Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

And this would be the typical view of native oaks, shrubs, grasses and deer trails.

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And this is what we found on January 16th, 2018, at about 700 feet of elevation, also looking south to San Pablo Bay.

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And close up view of burned oak and manzanita.

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We were lead by the Sonoma Ecology Center ‘Restoration Program Manager’ Mark Newhouser

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And Sonoma Ecology Center “Biologist and Research Program Director” Caitlin Cornwall

Alana Fichman - Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

And Bilingual Educator and ‘master of gate locks’ Alana Fichman

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It’s alive! This little fella was crossing the road. It is a California Newt (Taricha Torosa). Glands in the skin release a neurotoxin hundreds of times more potent than cyanide (by volume) which in the case of a newt is minute (mynewt, get it?) Free bottle of red wine to the first reader to alert me that you read this joke, reply to this post please…

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Pieces of rock chunked away by the roaring heat of the firestorm.

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…with bits exploded off the surface of the Rhyolitic outcroppings.

Now let’s explore the plants enjoying a recovery.

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This is Chemise (Adenostoma fasciculatum) first burned in the fire, and then cut by firefighters along the roadway, now making a fast recovery.

Chamise - Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

And this is what Chemise should look like in a few short months.

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Here is a young Madrone pushing new growth before the burned leaves have even fallen away, very unusual for January.

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Same for this live oak, rapidly pushing new growth high up on the tree. This is why everyone is cautioned not to be too quick about cutting down seemingly dead trees. Many of our native species are built to absorb some fire and push new growth.

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This is Fremont Lily (Zigadenus fremontii) making a fast comeback.

Fremont Lily - Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

And what it will look like come April!

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This is ‘bear grass’ (Xerophyllum tenax) coming back in a location that must have burned very hot given the absolute torching of the manzanita and rocks.

Beargrass - Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

We should find it in this gorgeous flowering stage in just a few short months.

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That fried manzanita from a different view.

Manzanita - Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

And what to expect after recovery.

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And last, the absolute dreaded and very invasive Broom – Scotch, Portuguese, and French (V. Cytisus), they quickly crowd out the natives, live only 7 to 8 years, and then present a huge hazard, burning very fast and hot.

Broom invasive weed - Sonoma Firestorm, Part 3, Hiking Arrowhead Mountain

And despite its ability to spread quickly drowning out all the natives, it is pretty on roadsides and hills, and are therefore presumed by some to be OK.

Want to learn more:

Link to Sonoma Ecology Center

Link to the next SEC hike

Link to topo map of Arrowhead Mountain, Sonoma

Link to Sonoma County Recovery web site

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The author, Ken Wornick, of Hydeout Sonoma Consulting

Link to Hydeout Sonoma

Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week…

Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week…

Congratulations to these three Hydeout Consulting clients – each of whom released their innaugural vintage this week. Each has a unique story to tell…

Hydeout 2016 labels - Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week...

SOVARE 2016 Sonoma Valley red blend – This client spared no expense in the farming and winemaking to produce a unique ultra-premium inky red. It is a field blend of equal parts Sangiovese, Zinfandel, and Cabernet Sauvignon from their rugged hillside vineyard on the flanks of Sonoma Mountain, just south of Kenwood. Aged in 50% new French oak and 50% one-year old American oak, it is a deep, dark, and spicy wine with evident body, offers superb balance between tannins and acidity, and will age to perfection over time. The name ‘Sovare’ deconstructed means ‘Sonoma Valley Red.’ This wine will be available only in the Bay Area and New York.

Sovare 2016 bottle - Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week...

Sovare 2016 label - Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week...

Little Gidding 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon – 100% estate Cabernet, an incredible hillside vineyard also flanking Sonoma Mountain, just 2 very special acres wrapping around a steep hillside with exposures to the east, south, and west, the wine was aged in 100% new French oak, and is a direct hit for what Sonoma Cabernet can be – austere, bright, cherry red, with smooth elegant tannins right out of the gate. Available only through Little Gidding in Sonoma.

Little Gidding 2016 bottle e1513988843489 - Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week...

Little Gidding 2016 label - Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week...

Hoffman - Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week...

Dysfunctional Family Winery 2016 red blend – purposefully irreverent, and intended to make light of all the ‘perfect families’ so often featured in the wine press, this client has a contrarium approach and loves wines that are bravely blended from multiple varieties and sources from widely varying sites around Sonoma Valley. This wine is 35% Syrah (from the valley floor), 25% Cabernet (Sonoma Mountain), 20% Merlot (Carneros), and 20% Zin (Kenwood).

Dysfucntional 2016 bottle - Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week...

Dysfucntional 2016 label - Hydeout clients release their first estate wine this week...

For more info, see these links:

click here for more Hydeout Sonoma blog entries

Sonoma Mountain make singular wines

or here for world’s oldest man drinks a glass of red wine every day!

Sonoma Magazine’s top wine of 2017

Happy holidays to all our wonderful subscribers. See you in 2018!

Six days of fire in Sonoma

Six days of fire in Sonoma

Six days of fire in Sonoma…

Everyone in Sonoma has a story to tell about their experience with the 2017 firestorm. Here is ours…

Monday, October 8th, around 1:30am, friends visiting from Indiana were staying in another room when they awoke to see fire out of their guest room window. They ran over to our bedroom window and pounded furiously. In a matter of minutes, we were all up, dressed, and formulating plans. This was the view from our backyard in the very first minutes of the firestorm:

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We should have been evacuated, but the systems for determining evacuation were not in place for a couple more days…

As the sun rose that morning, we found ourselves in a total news blackout. The fires had just started all over the Sonoma and Napa wine country. The fire was so fast and hot, there wasn’t really any time for first responders to address it. By the time a command-and-control center was in place, the first responders concerned themselves primarily with life safety, mostly in Santa Rosa. So for the first 48 hours of the fire, we never heard a siren, or saw a fireman or a firetruck. We rushed to fill our cars with all the family photos and our computers, opended the garage doors manually, and parked the cars facing the street ready for a quick getaway if the fires jumped onto the ranch.

Click here for a video of the fire and wind in the early moments

The fire raged across all of Arrowhead Mountain at the southern end of the Sonoma/Napa County line. Power went out in the first few hours of the firestorm. On rural properties like ours, and our Hyde Burndale neighbors, that meant no water (water wells became non-functioning and therefore no water pressure to the hoses), no septic (and therefore no toilets), no phone or internet and therefore no news.  And our cell phones – the only way to stay connected to the outside world – quickly ran out of charge as texts and calls accelerated. This is a good note of caution in the case of earthquakes too.  We charged our phones in the car with the engines running, and that’s how we kept up with the news. This was the view on the morning of day 1:

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Here is a map of the fires close to the Hydeout Sonoma. The yellow patchwork and solid yellow line show just how close the fires approached from the east and south. On the map below, between Napa Road and Highway 12 is where the homes in our neighborhood were lost.

Sonoma fire map Hydeout pinned - Six days of fire in Sonoma

And this is a view of the same fire from the Napa side on the same day:

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And below is the best technical explanation I have seen of how the firestorm exploded onto the Coffee Park and Fountaingrove neighborhoods in Santa Rosa, and everywhere else that homes burned including Glen Ellen, Warm Springs, Kenwood, and Bennett Valley:

Tubbs fire explained - Six days of fire in Sonoma

By day 2, I had a war-room of sorts set up in the kitchen. This included binoculars, flashlights, headlamps, bottled water, keys to all the ranch gates, doors, tractor and vehicles, wallet, passports, and a Grundig windup AM/FM/shortwave radio:

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So when night comes, we are prepared. Here we cooked with gas, enjoyed the tomatoes and basil from the garden, and an old bottle of La Honda wine, our former winery in Redwood City:

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The fire on day 3 continues burning east to west across Arrowhead Mountain, while the wind drives the smoke and flames south:

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On day 4, the fire had burned its way along Arrowhead Mountain, reaching just above our vineyard and winery neighbors – Nicholson, Scribe, and Gundlach Bundshu wineries:

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By sunset on Day 4, the air around the ranch was pretty rough. We went hunting for the N95 particulate masks, but in the interim, bandanas had to do:

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We posted signs to help the fire crews get onto the ranch if the fire jumped the road:

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The fire continued to burn:

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Around day 5, the Nunns Canyon Sonoma fire joined the Partrick Road Napa fire, and gave off this ominous mushroom cloud looking straight up Broadway into Sonoma town:

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Ash fell continuously as our trusty Kubota stood watch after being busy for days building firebreak:

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The ‘calvary’ arrived in the form of several awe inspiring aircraft, and the attack on the fire from the air began around Sonoma town, grabbing water from reservoirs, dropping their loads, circling back, and returning :

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On day 6 at 3:30am, with fire once again jumping lines and charging down the mountains, this time from the north, first responders drove through our neighborhood announcing over the loud horns “get out now” so we briefly, sadly, left the property, with this sign in the driveway:

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But we returned before sunrise and never left after that.

By day 7 the fire threat in our area was pretty much diminished, although many neighborhoods remained under mandatory evacuation for several more days. Our power was restored, and we happily housed several fire evacuees, both human and canine!

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We finally got a chance to look around a bit:

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And as the smoke began to fade and everyone busied themselves getting back to normal and helping others, we never expected to find this on our mailbox:

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Next week: an up close and personal view of the firestorm’s impact to vineyards and wine.